fashion

Journalist Dana Thomas exposes the sleaze beneath the rarefied world of high-end goods in Deluxe: How Luxury Lost its Luster.

Luxury in all its forms and styles have existed ever since income, class, and economic status have divided people between the haves and the have-nots. With some groups of people having much more resources than they need to survive, the surplus goes towards manifesting and reinforcing their higher stature in society through extravagance and conspicuous consumption. Recall Cleopatra and the perfumed sails of her pleasure ships; Nero and the tons of roses he rained upon guests at parties; the Mughal, Chinese, and Persian emperors who surrounded themselves with finely crafted objets of silk, precious metals, gems, and porcelain.

Modern-day luxury, says Thomas, resides in brand names and the inflated prices they command. Handbags from Louis Vuitton and Prada, perfumes from Patou, and clothes from Burberry are sold in gleaming glass palaces, enticing shoppers with an aspirational dream.

Since not everyone can afford haute couture from Chanel or hand-sewn luggage from Hermes, many luxury brands create products at lower-price points at which consumers can buy into the dream. These include small leather goods such as wallets or key chains. For scents, eau de toilette is cheaper than parfum. For clothes, most signature brands carry a pret-a-porter line.

However, says Thomas, in the mad rush by large luxury conglomerates to increase net profit, corners are cut, of which the consumer, clutching her hard-earned cash, is unaware. For instance, handbags are among the high-margin products that brands push with aggressive advertising which touts the “It” bag of the moment. Thomas saw handbags produced at $120 and sold for $1,200. Louis Vuitton is said to sell its handbags at ten to thirteen times the production cost.

What stylish woman wouldn’t want a collection of the latest by Vuitton, Balenciaga, Gucci? Luxury goods are beautifully designed and well-made.

But won’t those markups make you think twice before forking over your money, especially in these tough economic times?

I’ve always wanted an LV Popincourt Haut and an Hermes Birkin. But Thomas’ book is an eye-opener. My resolve? To buy Filipino. We have lovely things – Fino Leatherware makes bags that not everyone is carrying on their arm or slung over their shoulder. Via Venetto shoes are pretty. Ivarluski Aseron and Kate Torralba are just a couple of the many talented designers who create couture with a Filipino flavor.

In the end, though, it is all a matter of choice and personal conviction, as to what your dreams are, what is truly aspirational for you, and what you would pay to buy into your dream.

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With gadgets necessary for work and play getting smaller and easier to carry around, the next thing to consider is how to transport them safely.

Laptops and their sensitive LCD screens especially need to be well-protected. Having recently acquired an 8.9″ Acer Aspire One, I was looking for a cushiony case that would stand up to the diverse hard contents of my handbag – hairbrush, hardcover Moleskine notebooks, and whatnot.

At a recent trip to Glorietta 3 mall at the Ayala Center in Makati, my sister the shopping maven came upon a small kiosk stocked with cases and sleeves of all sizes.

Media/Quest/Marketing kiosk at G3 (near Dad’s and Powerbooks)

They carry the Ideastyle range from Taiwan. They’re made of Memory Foam, a material that’s soft and spongy and “remembers” the shape of things that are placed upon it Press the surface and a dent forms that slowly and gradually springs back to its original shape. There are many colors and styles to choose from.

The case fits snugly. Since it’s stretchy, it was able to accommodate my netbook with its oversize six-hour battery with just a little fudging.

Other cases are available on the market that are made of neoprene. It’s soft, but lacks the superior protection that Memory Foam affords.

The laptop can be inserted in to the sleeve normally and removed entirely for use…

…or it can be used as a cover/case by using straps to insert the monitor into. The wallpaper is original photography by artist and advertising executive Leigh Reyes; get it, and other fountain-pen themed wallpaper, here.

It’s terrific when you find a product that fits your needs and works with you, instead of you having to work with it.

My all-time favorite inspired invention though, is and always will be, the banana guard. In pink.

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Assignment: Turn out your handbag. Make an inventory of the items inside. Why do you carry them around? What is their significance or value in your life? Discuss.

Some of the things in my handbag:

• Black Moleskine ruled pocket notebook for jotting down random thoughts and quotes dropped by strangers, like the man of Indian heritage whom I overheard at the Rockwell Pancake House say, “They sprayed the restaurant with bullets…and it happened to be beside our favorite hangout”. This was just after the recent infamous Mumbai massacre.
• Vintage (‘70s) Sailor “21″ long-short fountain pen, inked with J. Herbin Cyclamen Rose. It is a cartridge fill, convenient and practical.
• Pink brocade wallet that holds US$1 bills collected from all the purses and handbags my mother has sent me through the years; she inserts them in the pockets as “lucky money” to attract more money. It works, in a way, but they attract Philippine pesos and not more US dollars. *Sigh*.
• Red FaceShop nail polish to touch up chips.
• Clinique sample size lipstick in “Blushing Nude”. It came in a box of freebies my sister Aileen sent from Dubai, and for which I thank her profusely, because in it there was also a bottle of eye makeup solvent which I needed for the velvet black Clinique mascara which also came in the box, along with samples of facial soap, Clarifying Lotion, Dramatically Different moisturizer, and a jar of Night Repairware that claims to minimize fine lines and crow’s-feet which I will use only when I’m old and wrinkly, which will be starting tonight.
• Two bars of Food for the Gods baked by my aunt, with plenty of dates and other dried fruit. Essentially “pocket fruitcake”.
• Kiehl’s Lip Balm #1 that my sister bought me the other day after I said I was looking for liquid lip balm in a tube because Chapstick wasn’t helping all that much anymore to moisturize my aging puckers, and, she said, so that I would have “at least one item of Kiehl’s” in my cosmetic bag. I also mentioned that I was looking for a car, maybe a compact with great mileage, power steering, and candy-apple red body paint, but she didn’t get me one that day although I don’t have one of those yet.
• One-gigabyte USB thumb drive with a swivel cap. Another freebie from my sister. It was a souvenir from the company she used to work for.
• A sample vial of Flower by Kenzo fragrance from my mom. She put it in one of the pockets of one of the handbags she sent for Christmas in a balikbayan box. You really have to look in all the pockets of stuff when you get things from my mom.
• A sachet of 3-in-1 coffee – Choco Fudge by Nestle. My favorite instant coffee with the powerful kick of robusta beans mixed with a hint – only a hint, mind you – of cocoa.
• A blue, gold, and glitter pearl handbag hook from one of my bosses, who bought it in Hong Kong. The enamel medallion is backed with rubber; you place that on the table surface at, say, a restaurant, allowing the hook to dangle down, from which you then hang your bag, obviating the need to carry your bag in your lap while you eat, which, from personal experience, is a good thing, because sometimes accidents happen like you spill your drink or drop a forkful of food in your lap, and you don’t want to get that gunk on your bag, but it’s okay if it falls in your lap because in theory there should be a napkin spread there.
• Cherry Chapstick. What can I say? I’m a loyalist. And it smells great. And it’s famous because it was mentioned in that song by Katy Perry, although as a bit of an old-fashioned person I don’t hold with the rest of the lyrics aside from the words “Cherry Chapstick”, “the”, “and”, “it” and “of”.

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Power Plant Mall, being delightfully cozy and intimate, is your best bet for a shopping experience that’s both relaxing (no crowds) and exciting (choose from a wide variety of goodies).

Located along Rockwell Drive in Makati City, it’s the ultimate in urban leisure and pleasure.

Here’s the latest news on what’s happening there this weekend:

Rockwell’s Urban Bazaar Holiday Series: October 24-25

‘Tis the season to go shopping! Power Plant Mall invites you to part two of Rockwell’s Urban Bazaar: Holiday Series, a fabulously hassle-free Christmas shopping experience happening on October 24 & 25 (Friday 12NN-8PM & Saturday 10AM-8PM) at the Rockwell Tent.

Get a head start on your holiday gift buying this month with over 80 booths that offer you nothing but the best. Delight yourselves in a relaxed stroll through each booth and discover the wide variety of unique gift items, handmade goods, handbags, accessories, baby products, and many more.

Find the perfect gift for everybody and anybody-from babies to oldies, for your friends and family!

Babinski Baby will surely give moms & moms-to-be pure joy with their one-of-a-kind items such as “almost shows”, cute footwear for newborn babies, “babi pillow”, an essential item for new breastfeeding moms, and a lot more!

INDIGOBaby products will surely enhance a mother’s relationship with her newborn with the snugbug belt bags & summer baby pouches!

Personalize your gift and create a special style for your loved one in Make Your Own Flipflops! Vintage inspired and handmade accessories are also available at Julena’s Lockets & Cameos and Sundari.

Spread the love with U&I, known for their cute gift items that are perfect for couples. These items will surely make your loved one feel extra-special during this season!

Men won’t have to worry about not finding anything at this bazaar – Hello Lulu offers stylish laptop sleeves and canvas bags that suit any mood or season. DRU & NJ Sneaks will definitely help men dress up for upcoming special holiday occasions.

Don’t miss this exciting event at the Rockwell Tent. The Urban Bazaar Holiday Series is scheduled on October 24-25, November 28-30 & December 12-14. For more information, please call 8981702 or log on to powerplantmall.multiply.com.

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I’ve been interested in British and French history since I was a teenager, and relish the art, fashion, and scandalous stories of royalty, the elite, and the demi-monde of the 17th to 19th century. Perhaps this stems from reading childhood tales of kings and queens, courtesans and courtiers, who surrounded themselves with the luxurious accouterments that were an intrinsic part of their lavish lifestyles.

Are there still craftsmen who create exquisite cabinets and commodes in precious ebony, marble, porcelain, and gold? Couturiers who use thirty yards or more of fine velvet for a ballgown, spangling it with real diamonds and gold thread, and icing it with lengths of delicate handmade lace? Each era features its own excesses defined by prevailing trends – certainly no one wears that kind of clothing anymore - yet it seems that nothing made now can truly compare to the creations of the past.

My favorite portrait of Marie Antoinette, Queen of France. Titled “Marie Antoinette a la rose” it was painted in the rococo style in oils on canvas in 1783 by Marie-Elisabeth Louise Vigee-Le Brun, the Queen’s favorite portrait painter. Image from here.

Fortunately much material still survives from those years, for our present edification. “Marie Antoinette’s Gossip Guide to the 18th Century” and “Tea at Trianon” are among the best blogs on the subject.

On the subject of scandal, Scandalous Woman is the most informative blog I have come across. It’s been said that the very rich and the very poor have no morals – the former because they possess the money to do whatever they want, and the latter because they don’t and have nothing to lose. The behavior of some of these entitled nobles and their hangers-on still raises eyebrows today.

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From Rockwell Land comes this announcement about their latest shopping event:

Discover Color at Rockwell’s Urban Bazaar

This rainy season, satisfy that urge to splurge at the Rockwell Urban Bazaar from August 15 to 17 at the Rockwell Tent.

This year’s theme: “Discover Color, Find your Style.” Rockwell’s Urban Bazaar will showcase over 80 participating shops with a unique mix of women’s fashion, men’s line, accessories, beauty, home items and knick-knacks.

Raid the racks with clothes from exciting brands like Be, Cole Vintage, Daphne, Designer Soiree, and V Clothing. Shift from work-wear to weekend wear with Lime, a fabulous line of comfy and lightweight jersey tops and dresses – perfect for the active woman who needs flexible fashion to fit her lifestyle.

Adventurous stylephiles will also enjoy Tammy Tan tops and casual dresses in geometric prints to make a bold fashion statement. Tammy Tan’s playful yet elegant designs are sure to add spice to your closet and will let you stand out from the crowd.

Treat your soles to fashionable footwear from Ichigo , NJ Sneakers, Renegade Folk, and the latest footwear fad, Plueys Manila.

Plueys lets you enjoy stylish Wellington rain boots made from durable natural rubber with sturdy treaded soles and are softly lined for comfort. It’s perfect from dressing up or dressing down.

Guys can also enjoy a wide assortment from the men’s line of Villareal and Munky, as well as tailored shirts and jackets from Navarro. Hip shirts and denims that fit the urban lifestyle can also be bought at Switch Nation.

To make you even more chic and stylish are accessories from Buxani, Fuddy Duddy, Get Happy, Temp Station, BBB, D!luxe Jewelry, Bags in the City, De Roca Bags, Veronica Manila, Gypsy Holiday, and Tonic.

To make your shopping extravaganza complete, indulge your taste buds at the new and exciting food booths outside the tent.

So rush to the Rockwell Tent to splurge and spoil yourself with this year’s Urban Bazaar and get a chance to win raffle prizes and enjoy Samba performances by Escola de Samba de Manila – the first and only Samba school in the Philippines !

For inquiries call 898-1702.   ***

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Back from the talyer (AKA Luis Store, 375 Escolta, Manila) are two Sheaffer Balance fountain pens from Leigh. Various Internet sources say that these particular models – the Jet Black Lady (or Junior) and the Golden-Brown Striated - were released in 1936-1939.

Upon the nib of the Jet Black pen are engraved the words “Sheaffer’s 3 Made in USA”; it is a very fine nib, perhaps an extra-fine. The Golden Brown Striated Balance bears a Sheaffer’s Lifetime nib with its own serial number; I’d say it’s a fine nib.

The nibs of both pens are in good condition;; I just brought them to Terrie and Rose Pua of Luis Store for sac replacement as these pens are lever-fills and the rubber sacs had expired over time.

Manufacturer’s information on the barrels

Not all pens bore the trademark white dot

“Visulator” windows are close to the nibs; threads are for the caps, which screw on

At seventy years old, these beautiful pens still function, and are a marvel of classic and timeless design with their tapered caps and tails. As links to the past, they evoke images of ladies in bob haircuts or marcelled hair and gowns with low-cut backs, lounging in Art Deco settings, smoking cigarettes in holders, or penning love letters to their swains.

Women, perhaps, like my own maternal grandmother (Beatriz Ledesma Lacson), shown here in a photograph from the 1930s. I can just see her with one of these pens in hand, dashing off acceptance notes to amigas for a supper or carnival ball invitation or inking dedications on the back of photos like this.

This is why I collect – and use – fountain pens. Would you keep a Bic for seventy years? Could you still use it? Would you want to?

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Here’s an interesting read I picked up at Fully Booked last May 2007 along with Victoria Finlay’s Colour: Travels Through the Paintbox.

The Essence of Style is by Joan de Jean, who has written seven other books on French literature, history, and culture. She is a professor of French at the University of Pennsylvania, and also holds positions at Princeton and Yale.

De Jean traces the reasons why Paris is the fashionista center of the world, and why Hermes, Vuitton, and Creme de la Mer are must-haves despite their exhorbitant prices.

Apparently it was all Louis XIV’s fault. This maitre of style ruled the French court with his highly original and decorative ideas on dress, etiquette, and urban planning, which to this day have repercussions on the monde of haute couture.

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